I made a promise to myself that I would not use this blog as a platform for moaning about the conditions in which I find myself living. I don’t want to have to break that promise, but I do want to share a few realities with you. I’m also of the opinion that if you are going to moan, then at least follow that up with some sort of solution. I found me a solution.
Typical phrases around our office/household include the following: “Is that the electricity off, again?”, “The water’s off, again.” Why is the internet down, again?”, “This lamb chop tastes like old ram.., wait a minute, it is old ram!”, “This rice is gritty” (actually grit in rice, not just really hard rice), “This chicken thigh has a whiff of something soapy.”, “The yoghurt’s gone off, and it’s still long before the best before date.” Etc. etc.
My biggest gripe is not whether or not we have water or electricity or even ADSL. These will come back at some point during the day. We’ve never been without for longer than a few hours at a time. It’s not so bad, when you get used to it. No, my biggest gripe is about fresh air. Or, to be more accurate, the lack thereof. If I could bottle up the Bamako “essence” and upload it via the internet, I would. You really don’t know it until you personally experience it.
To be fair, our office/accommodation is based in the heart of the industrial zone of Bamako. We have stayed elsewhere in the city, far away from industry..and it makes little difference, if any. Throughout the city there are open culverts either side of the main roads, which in the rainy season (~June-September) are very effective for draining all the water out to the river. The only problem is that there are far more months in the year where there is not one single drop of rain. The culverts become handy dumping grounds for all sorts of rubbish, and they stink. On top of the whiff of rotting material, be it plant or animal derived, there are piles of rubbish that are set alight and left to smoulder. The smell of burning plastic continuously lingers in the air. I also can’t not mention the fish market. OH. MY. WORD. Indescribable. You know when you are approaching one. No air filter known to man can prevent its stench from getting inside your vehicle. Ugh. I haven’t yet managed to get a photo of one of the fish markets, I’ve been too busy concentrating on not asphyxiating. In addition, I feel a bit conspicuous whipping out my muckle great big camera in such an obviously deprived setting. It doesn’t feel right. In these scenarios, I try some covert, drive-by snapping with my Iphone. It’s got a cover on, so it is a little less obvious.
Then there is the dust factor.
During the dry months there is always a fine dust, from the Harmattan, in the air. Apart from sneezing a whole lot more than I would normally, I have kind of gotten used to it! However, the big issue is… “swishing”. Swishing takes place twice daily, at sunrise and sunset. Swishing is what I call the act of brushing up leaves from the dusty ground, creating mini dust storms that linger in the still air. Swishing happens all over the country. If you are anywhere near a village, never mind the capital city, you will encounter swishing. There is no escape. In the city, you can hide indoors and close any open windows. Brilliant.. In the field camp, however - we have no glass windows, only metal shutters. Not very effective for keeping anything out, dust and mosquitoes alike.
So, what is my solution to escape these sensory assaults? I’ve taken on the tactics used when snorkeling. Yes indeed, do NOT breath through your nose. Ok, that’s only one solution. The other one is far more picturesque and serene; The National Park/Botanical Gardens of Bamako.
A mere CFA1500 will get you in as a non-national. It is much cheaper if you are a citizen, as it should be. The gardens were re-opened in 2008, after undergoing a re-vamp with some much-needed investment. There are some well established trees as well as newer additions, which are only just breaking out of the sapling stage. Around the garden are miniature replicas of well-known landmarks and monuments around Mali. One, I instantly recognised as the Great Mosque/Friday Mosque at Djenné.
The walkways are beautifully paved and in fact the gardens are a very common place for joggers, especially in the early evening when the temperature drops a little. My husband and I also chose to explore the gardens in the early evening, and we were not disappointed. As well as a Tea House and a small café where you can get yourself a cold beer, there is the Restaurant Balasoko. This was EXCELLENT. Sitting up on a raised terrace, overlooking a water feature with the sounds of water trickling over a waterfall (artificial, but effective), we enjoyed the best meal we’ve ever had in a restaurant in Bamako. Admittedly, we haven’t ventured too far… but we’re getting there! It is a tad more expensive than other venues around the city, but in our opinion it was most definitely worth it.
In addition to the wonderful food, we were sitting outside in the fresh air. Lovely! All the surrounding greenery filtered out every last speck of dust and smell from the city. Also, instead of cars and wailing sirens, our ears were treated to the local traditional Mande music performed by two chaps in the background. We like this place. We shall return..
Bamako – March, 2011